Are Black Women who Surf a trend or here to stay?

 

As I'm preparing to celebrate my 9th Anniversary of learning how to surf, I think about all of the women whom I've met over the years in passing who've also tried it out. A few stuck with it, most I've never seen again at the Beach. 

The percentage of women in California who surf in general is around 20 -30%,so when I think about BIPOC women who surf with the Black population here being around 6.5%  according  to the Census... 

Breaking down the lack of diversity in outdoor spaces, an article was written by the National Health Foundation, the combination of economic inequality, legalized segregation, and other forms of covert/overt historical and present day racial violence have perpetuated the diversity gap is a major concern that is also valid with committing to this sport. 

Surfing from onlookers thou can seem like such an easy going, chill, simple right? But, not only is it up there among the top dangerous sports but, it can actually be quite rough depending on the crowd, typically male dominated, the weather and the ocean's conditions that week can change drastically from one day to the next.  

External Factors about Surfing 

Other important factors that may impact our commitment include finding someone who shares the same regular schedule to as you to go because the buddy system of never surfing alone is among the top golden rules of surfing especially when you're new and learning about surf etiquette. 

Some Surfers prefer dawn patrol which is early in the morning at sunrise, the waves are typically smoother and no wind, mid-morning's are still good but there is a shorter window before the tide changes but the weather is much warmer than at dawn patrol.

Then the afternoon sessions can be the most unpredictable, choppy when the wind picks up but less surfers in the water then the morning time. Evening sessions, the wind goes down again and you get to watch a beautiful sunset but the temps may start to drop significantly compared to earlier times. 

Surfing Goals 

Our surfing goals with what level we are at or trying to get to generally determine which beaches we decide to consistently frequent as well. A long boarders like myself who enjoys point breaks vs short boarders who prefer beach breaks. 

Point breaks have rocky bottoms which makes long rolling waves nice and smooth.  Then there are short boarders who enjoy beach breaks which are often peaky waves, shallow with sandy bottoms that close out which doesn't give us with 9ft boards or longer to do very much on them.

 The purpose of longboarding is to walk up and down it, hang 5 or ten toes at the end with some style which requires a smaller but longer wave where as shortboarding is similar to skateboarding at a skateboard park, riding bigger, steeper waves going up and down them, doing aerial type tricks. 

Investment in Surf lifestyle

I also believe finding a local beach you feel connected with the vibe and a safe environment as women of color are the key to staying consistent. I know this can sounds pretty overwhelming, the purpose of surfing in the first place would be to find balance with our mental health. 

Also, you had to invest a lot of money into taking lessons and hopefully the Instructor taught more than just popping up on a wave. It's reading the waves, understanding the weather, the tide changes, your surfing goals, the financial commitment into the parking fees, surf accessories, wetsuits, surfboards... all that.  

When I started, it was so profound to have one Black Surfers organization here in the Los Angeles area that was just forming around the time I joined. Now there are 8 different groups.. That's a very significant increase of progression. Mind-boggling if you ask me. 

There weren't as many blogs that I found back then either that explained what I needed to know and I didn't find many videos who gave a lot of education which compelled me to create content on my YouTube Channel about it as well as to find others out there like myself who needed that support. 

So when I think about those women I started out with who perhaps were faced with trying to figure it out like me, I write this in hopes that the newbies will find this and feel a lot more informed.  If this has helped in any way,  please leave me a comment and let me know your experience, I'd love to hear them.